Exactly what goes into a bra? If you are a first time bra-maker, the list of "stuff" can be quite intimidating. Let's go through the necessary bits for a basic bra one by one.

FABRICS - you need two different fabrics: one for the cups and one for the band. The band needs to stretch to go around the body so the band fabric needs to have stretch. If it is too stretchy, the band will ride up, so choose band fabrics that are a firm stretch, such as a power knit. The cup fabric on the other hand, has no need to stretch, and is actually more supportive without it. So choose the cup fabric from no-stretch or low-stretch fabrics, such as Duoplex or the Simplex type of jersey knits. They do not contain spandex, and have only "mechanical give" which is a bit of give resulting from the knitting of the fabric.

BAND ELASTICS -   two elastics are used for the band - one for the bottom of the band and one for the top at the underarm edge. The bottom band elastic is the one that provides the support for the cups, so that one is usually wider than the top one. Larger bra cups can use 3/4" elastic, medium cups can use 5/8" or 1/2" and smaller cups can easily use 3/8" elastic for the bottom band. The top band elastic is usually 3/8" wide but if you have larger cups, there's no reason why you can't use 1/2" at the top.

STRAPPING -  There are literally dozens of combinations of materials for straps. Some are all elastic, some are totally non-stretch and some are a bit of both. You will find the best combination for you after you make a few. Here's what I recommend for your first bra. Use the fabric from the cups (the non-stretch fabric) to make the front part of the strap which attaches to the front of the bra. The strap elastic will be at the back and it will hold the sliders and rings which will allow the straps to be lengthened or shortened.  Straps that are wider or padded are great for large bra cups (3/4"or wider), while a 1/2"-5/8" strap is good for medium cups. The smaller cups can use the 3/8" or spaghetti straps. 

WIRES AND WIRE CASING - Even if you don't use wires, you should use wire casing around the cup, to keep the bias edges from stretching out. Wire casing is also called 'channelling' or 'wire tubing', and it really is a tube. You always slide the wire inside the tube. If the wire is between the casing and the fabric, the wire will pop through the fabric. What wire size is the right one? Put a wire around your naked breast. The wire should sit there at the base of the breast with no space between the breast and the base of the wire.

HOOKS & EYES -   Hooks and eyes are sold as pre-cut sets or as a continuous strip. Each format has its own merits. We name the hooks and eyes by their number of vertical (up and down) hooks by the number of eyes available for adjusting (we always use 3 at BMS).  So a 2 x 3 hook and eye set is two hooks high and 3 eyes wide. Small cups can use 1 x 3, medium cups can use 2 x 3 and larger cups will feel supported in a 3 x 3 set. There are those who want 4 x 3 hooks and eyes and that is their choice.

NECKLINE TRIM - The neckline trim goes on the uppermost edge of the bra, the decollete, if you will. The neckline trim finishes off the raw edge and if a narrow strip of stabilizer is stitched in under the trim, it will keep that edge from stretching out, which is absolutely necessary for the larger cups. The neckline is an area to show off some pretty trim, too.

THE ADORNMENT -  Yes, the bow! That's the finishing touch that makes the bra look like you just bought it. But it's there for more than just pretty. it also hides the stitching for the closing of the wire casing.

Now that you know what the basics are, here are the quantities of each that you need:

• CUP FABRIC (Duoplex/Simplex)- .5 metres will usually make 2 or 3 sets of bra cups, the front straps, and the front band
• BAND FABRIC (Power Knit) - .5 metres will do between 3 and 5 bras
• BOTTOM BAND ELASTIC -  measure around your body, you won't need more than that. Usually 1 metre unless you have a large frame
• TOP BAND ELASTIC - usually takes 1.5 metres per bra to do the underarm edge and up the outer edges of the fabric strap
• STRAP ELASTIC - .5 metre will do the two straps (10" for each side)
• SLIDERS & RINGS - you need 2 sliders and 2 rings in a size to match the strap elastic
• WIRE CASING -  1 metre is usually good, unless you have very large cups, then 1.2 metres is lots.
• WIRES - Check the printable wire chart to compare your wires with our sizes.
• HOOKS & EYES - You need one set, either 1 x 3, 2 x 3 or 3 x 3. If you want continuous tape, choose the number vertically that you need, either 1, 2 or 3.
• NECKLINE TRIM - 1.25 metres is usually enough to go around the nckline and up the inner edge of the front straps.
• THE BOW - just one!